Workshop reference
The meter says that. Is it good or bad?
One ohm and one million ohms are both “a reading”. This page walks the scale of every meter function in plain words — resistance, volts, amps, continuity, plus fuse and cable sizing — so you can judge any number in front of you.
OL
Over limit. No path at all — a break in the circuit. It does not mean a short.
Near 0 Ω
Joined. Good on a wire, a fault if you were expecting a load — that is a short.
A few ohms
Still continuity, but resisting. The classic hidden fault that only shows under load.
Resistance — how big is big?
One ohm and one million ohms are both 'a reading', but they mean completely different things. Work down this ladder and you can judge any resistance figure in seconds.
The ohms ladder
Left to right: what the meter shows, what it means in plain words, and what it usually is on a vehicle.
0.00 – 0.50 Ω
- Plain meaning
- On a vehicle
- Verdict
Current can pass freely. On a high-current circuit even this much can matter — always confirm with a voltage drop test under load rather than trusting ohms alone.
0.5 – 5 Ω
- Plain meaning
- On a vehicle
- Verdict
Fine for a small coil or bulb filament. On a battery cable, earth strap or starter feed it is a fault — a few ohms will collapse the voltage as soon as current flows.
5 – 100 Ω
- Plain meaning
- On a vehicle
- Verdict
This is component territory, not wiring territory. Judge it against the manufacturer figure — a winding a few ohms low is shorted turns, a few ohms high is a corroded internal joint.
100 Ω – 10 kΩ
- Plain meaning
- On a vehicle
- Verdict
Most of these change with temperature or position, so a single reading proves nothing. Sweep the sensor or heat it and watch the number move smoothly — a jump or a dropout is the fault.
10 kΩ – 1 MΩ
- Plain meaning
- On a vehicle
- Verdict
If you read this between two wires that should be isolated, you have found a leak. Water and salt across a connector typically show tens to hundreds of kilohms and cause odd, intermittent faults.
Above 1 MΩ, or OL
- Plain meaning
- On a vehicle
- Verdict
OL means the resistance is higher than the meter can measure — effectively infinite. On a wire that should be continuous this is a break. On two wires that should be isolated from each other, OL is exactly what you want to see.
Ohms are measured with the circuit dead and, ideally, the component unplugged from the rest of the loom — otherwise you are measuring everything else in parallel too.
The units, and what the meter shows
Same value, three different ways of writing it. Autorange switches for you — read the letter, not just the digits.
mΩ (milliohm)
- Equals
- Typical display
- Where you see it
Below the resolution of most hand-held meters. If you need this level, test voltage drop under load instead — that is the same measurement done properly.
Ω (ohm)
- Equals
- Typical display
- Where you see it
The working range for most components. Always subtract your lead resistance.
kΩ (kilohm)
- Equals
- Typical display
- Where you see it
A reading of 2.35 kΩ is 2 350 Ω — nearly two hundred times an injector. Mistaking kΩ for Ω is the classic misdiagnosis.
MΩ (megohm)
- Equals
- Typical display
- Where you see it
Anything reading in megohms is, for vehicle purposes, not connected. Treat it as an open unless you are deliberately testing insulation.
OL is not a short — the one to get right
These two get mixed up constantly, and they are opposites.
Open circuit (OL)
- What the meter says
- What is physically happening
- Typical cause
No continuity. The circuit is missing a piece. Nothing works, and there is usually no blown fuse because no current ever flowed.
Short circuit
- What the meter says
- What is physically happening
- Typical cause
Too much continuity. Current bypasses the load, so the fuse blows or the component runs constantly. Short to earth blows fuses; short to power makes things run on their own.
High resistance
- What the meter says
- What is physically happening
- Typical cause
The most common real-world fault and the hardest to spot. It passes a continuity beep and fails the moment load is applied — find it with a voltage drop test, not an ohmmeter.
Quick sanity check on any ohms reading: touch your two probes together first. Whatever that shows (usually 0.1–0.4 Ω) is your leads, and must be subtracted from every reading.
Voltage — how big is big?
Volts are pressure. A reading only means something once you know where in the circuit you took it and whether current was flowing at the time.
The volts ladder — voltage drop across a connection
Measured across a wire, joint or connection while the circuit is working. This is how you find bad connections.
0 – 50 mV (0.00 – 0.05 V)
- Plain meaning
- Verdict
- Action
The connection is doing its job. Any voltage lost here is negligible.
50 – 200 mV (0.05 – 0.2 V)
- Plain meaning
- Verdict
- Action
Normal across a long high-current cable or a starter feed. On a signal wire or a small earth it is already too much.
0.2 – 0.5 V
- Plain meaning
- Verdict
- Action
Something in that section is resisting. Half a volt lost on a 12 V circuit is 4% of your supply gone as heat.
Above 0.5 V
- Plain meaning
- Verdict
- Action
The connection is the fault. Expect dim lights, slow crank, odd module behaviour or a component that works cold and dies hot.
Voltage drop only exists while current flows. Test with the circuit loaded — lights on, engine cranking, motor running — or you will read 0 V on a completely broken joint.
Landmark voltages to judge against
The numbers experienced technicians carry in their head.
Battery rested
- Expected
- Meaning
- If it is wrong
Every 0.2 V below 12.6 V is roughly a quarter of the charge gone.
Cranking floor
- Expected
- Meaning
- If it is wrong
Measured at the battery posts while cranking, on a warm engine.
Charging
- Expected
- Meaning
- If it is wrong
Smart-charge vehicles legitimately vary between 12.5 V and 15 V — read live data before condemning.
Sensor reference
- Expected
- Meaning
- If it is wrong
Test at the sensor plug, not at the ECU, so the wiring is included.
Narrowband lambda
- Expected
- Meaning
- If it is wrong
It is the switching that matters, not any single value.
Millivolts (mV)
- Expected
- Meaning
- If it is wrong
If the meter shows mV, the number on screen is thousandths of a volt.
Ghost voltage: a wire lying next to a live one can show several volts on a high-impedance meter with nothing actually connected. If the reading collapses the moment you apply a small load, it was never real.
Current — how big is big?
Amps are flow. What counts as a lot depends entirely on the circuit — 50 mA overnight is a fault, 300 A for two seconds while cranking is normal.
The amps ladder
0 – 30 mA
- Plain meaning
- Typical source
- Verdict
A modern vehicle asleep should sit here. Allow up to 50 mA on a car full of modules, and always wait for it to go to sleep first — often 20 to 40 minutes.
30 – 80 mA
- Plain meaning
- Typical source
- Verdict
Will flatten an average battery in a week or two. Find it by pulling fuses one at a time and watching the clamp or meter.
Above 80 mA
- Plain meaning
- Typical source
- Verdict
Half an amp will flatten a healthy battery overnight. Work through the fuse box until the reading drops.
0.5 – 10 A
- Plain meaning
- Typical source
- Verdict
Compare against the fuse rating — a circuit sitting near its fuse value is running hot.
10 – 40 A
- Plain meaning
- Typical source
- Verdict
Double the expected figure here usually means a motor with worn brushes or a seizing bearing.
80 – 300 A
- Plain meaning
- Typical source
- Verdict
Roughly 80–150 A for a small petrol, 150–250 A for a large petrol or small diesel, up to 350 A on a big diesel. High current with slow cranking is a dragging starter or engine.
Never put a hand-held meter in series with a starter or any heavy circuit. The amps sockets are fused at 10 A (often 400 mA on the low range) — over that you blow the internal fuse or the meter. Use a clamp for anything above a few amps.
Reading the current units
µA (microamp)
- Equals
- Where used
- Watch out for
Only specialist meters resolve this. Rarely needed on a workshop job.
mA (milliamp)
- Equals
- Where used
- Watch out for
This is the range for drain testing. Make sure the meter is in the mA socket, not the 10 A socket.
A (amp)
- Equals
- Where used
- Watch out for
Above 10 A, switch to a clamp meter rather than breaking into the circuit.
Continuity, diode and capacitance
The other positions on the dial, and what a good and bad reading looks like on each.
The rest of the dial
Continuity (beep)
- Good reading
- Bad reading
- What it proves
The beeper is deliberately generous. A joint hanging on by two strands still beeps happily and still fails under load. Use it to find a break, never to prove a connection is good.
Diode test
- Good reading
- Bad reading
- What it proves
Used on alternator diodes, relay suppression diodes and injector protection diodes. A shorted diode is what puts AC ripple on the charging system.
Capacitance
- Good reading
- Bad reading
- What it proves
nF is thousandths of a µF. Discharge the capacitor before testing, and expect the reading to take a couple of seconds to settle.
AC volts on a DC system
- Good reading
- Bad reading
- What it proves
A DC system should have almost no AC on it. AC ripple upsets modules and produces faults that make no sense anywhere else.
Fuses and cable — sizing it properly
The fuse protects the cable, not the device. Size the cable for the load, then size the fuse to protect that cable.
Choosing a fuse for a known load
Work out the load current (watts ÷ volts), add 25–50% headroom, then take the next standard fuse up — provided the cable can carry it.
Up to 2 A (e.g. 20 W lamp)
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Small signal and lighting circuits. Do not go below 3 A or vibration and inrush will nuisance-blow it.
3 – 5 A (e.g. 60 W)
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Radio, interior lighting, small solenoids.
6 – 10 A (e.g. 120 W)
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Headlamp pair, fuel pump, wiper motor.
11 – 15 A
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Heated seats, small blower, auxiliary sockets.
16 – 25 A
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Blower motor, heated rear screen, radiator fan on low.
26 – 40 A
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Cooling fan on high, winch feeds, inverter supplies.
Above 60 A
- Load current
- Fuse to fit
- Minimum cable
Alternator output and main battery feeds. Fit the protection as close to the battery as possible.
Never fit a bigger fuse to stop it blowing. A fuse blows because the circuit is drawing more than it should — upsizing it just moves the failure point to the cable, and that is how looms burn.
Blade fuse colours and ratings
Standard colour coding across mini, standard (ATO) and maxi blade fuses.
Grey
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Lowest common blade rating.
Violet
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Pink
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Tan / beige
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Brown
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Red
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Blue
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Yellow
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Clear / white
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Green
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Orange (maxi)
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Red (maxi)
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Blue (maxi)
- Rating
- Typical use
- Body
Colours are a convention, not a guarantee — always read the number stamped on the top before fitting.
Cable size against safe current
Continuous current for automotive single-core cable at ordinary underbonnet temperatures, on short runs.
0.5 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
0.75 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
1.0 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
1.5 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
2.0 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
3.0 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
6.0 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
16 mm²
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
25 mm² and up
- AWG
- Safe continuous current
- Typical use
Long runs need a size up: keep total voltage drop under 3% of supply, which is about 0.36 V on a 12 V circuit.
Frequency, duty cycle and dwell
The modes people skip. Worth knowing, because a lot of modern actuators are controlled this way.
What the other modes read
Digital MAF frequency
- Typical range
- Meaning
- If it looks wrong
Snap the throttle and the figure should rise and fall cleanly.
Wheel speed sensor
- Typical range
- Meaning
- If it looks wrong
Spin the wheel by hand and watch for a steady climb.
Fan or purge valve duty
- Typical range
- Meaning
- If it looks wrong
Duty cycle is how modules control power smoothly with a simple on/off output.
Throttle actuator PWM
- Typical range
- Meaning
- If it looks wrong
Read duty, not voltage — an average voltage reading on a PWM signal tells you very little.
Injector on-time (ms)
- Typical range
- Meaning
- If it looks wrong
Measured with a scope or a meter with a pulse-width function.
70 readings explained
These are typical figures for common light vehicles, given so you can spot a reading that is obviously wrong. Manufacturer data always wins, and high-voltage hybrid or electric work is for qualified technicians only.